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Pakistan wrap-up: Stangl to speed-climb K2, Iranians in Broad's SW face BC, GII joint summit plans
09:07 am CDT Jul 02, 2009
(K2Climb.net) Ski-runner Christian Stangl plans to speed-climb K2 in less than one day. Iranian climbers have reached Broad’s SW face BC.
On GII, climbers are meeting for a joint strategy today and while Karakoram weather was still bad yesterday – forecasts are looking up.
K2
Two years ago he climbed Everest north side from ABC to the summit in 16 hours and 42 minutes; now Austrian sky-runner Christian Stangl, 43, hopes to break Benoit’ Chamoux’s 23 hours speed record on K2, Montagna.org reported.
Christian confirmed on his website that the expedition would kick off on June 27th – updates are still expected though.
“We’re back from our first acclimatization tour,” Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reported. “We spent one night at 5,850m, and the two following nights at 6,350m. Both camps are sheltered from avalanches, but also small and pitched on steep terrain – actually, the entire Cesen route is steep.”
“Yesterday we had some snow in BC, but conditions are forecasted to improve soon – they better, since we need good weather and more importantly no wind in order to reach 7,200m.”
Maxut and Vassily are flying to Islamabad next week – teaming up with Serguey Bogomolov, they’ll be sharing permit with Gerlinde and David. “Gerlinde and her mate are on the Cesen route, but we are aiming for the Abruzzi Spur,” Maxut noted.
“Weather is still bad, so we’re not moving from BC today,” Sean Wisedale wrote. “Therefore, I have time to focus and prepare to stick to K2’s rules – as follows:
Rule 1: K2 will kill you if you make one mistake
Rule 2: Know your capacity
Rule 3: Focus and endurance may get you through in perfect weather
Rule 4: Always remember the rules
Broad Peak
“Heavy snow and big winds filled today’s early hours,” FTA’s Chris reported yesterday. “In the afternoon we saw three avalanches blasting down the route and across the glacier. If the weather holds for a few days we will move back up to Camp 2 - hopefully the camp will still be there along with the rope and gear to fix the route up to Camp 3 at just under 7000m.”
Some distance away from the teams attempting the normal route, the Arash mountaineers club of Tehran team set up BC at the base of Broad Peak’s SW face on Tuesday, according to IMZ. "Due to some official affairs, we are the last expedition to reach BC on Broad Peak and K2 area,” the team wrote.
Gasherbrum II
“As soon as the weather improves, we’ll launch a summit push,” Nacho Lucero reported. “All teams are gathering tomorrow, in order to set up a common strategy.”
Links to climbing teams in Pakistan 2009
Broad Peak:
Elisabeth Revol
Antoine Girard
Ludovic Giambasi
Eelco Jansen
Field Touring Alpine
Iran Mountain Zone News
Karrar Haidri's Saltoro Summits
Serap Jangbu Sherpa
Adventure Tour Pakistan
K2
Fredrik Ericsson
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Maxut Zhumayev
Fabrizio Zangrilli
Jake Meyer
Santiago Quintero
Sean Wisedale
Martin Ramos
Christian Stangl
Nanga Parbat
Gerfried Göschl
Louis Rousseau
Giuseppe Pompili
Joao Garcia
Gasherbrums
Daniela Teixeira & Paulo Roxo
Philippe Gatta
Altitude Junkies
Don Bowie
Valery Babanov
Kinga Baranowska
Jagged-Globe
Nacho Lucero
Carlos Soria
Camilo & Anna
Lesser peaks and spires
Mt. Noshaq's Afghans to the top
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