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K2 second Aug 1 update: climbers stuck above Bottleneck
image story Dig image "Climber and headlamp before dawn, Himalaya" copyright Nomads'Land.

image story The Bottleneck in image by Libor Uher/ P.Sulovsky's K2 & BP Czech and Slovak expedition (click to enlarge).

image story Starting the traverse under the great serac. All 3 above images courtesy of Libor Uher/ P.Sulovsky's K2 & BP Czech and Slovak expedition (click to enlarge).

image story Cesen/Abruzzi joint route on the upper part of K2. Image by ExplorersWeb (click to enlarge).





03:59 pm CDT Aug 01, 2008
(K2Climb.net/story updated 5.50 pm EST) Dutch K2 Norit expedition webmaster Maarten van Eck reports that a big chunk of ice has fallen below the summit, taking a large part of the fixed lines with it. About 12 people, including possibly Wilco, Gerard, Marco and Korean climbers are stuck before either the traverse or the Bottleneck. Cas and Pemba down climbed to C4 without fixed ropes.

Dutch Norit Base Camp manager Roeland is in the Korean expedition tent organizing a joint rescue effort. Early this morning at dawn a group of at least six climbers with all the ropes they can find will climb towards the Bottleneck. Radio contact is difficult due to the topo of the route.

This is a serious situation and all resources available on the mountain should be put towards it. Several international teams of climbers were reported on summit push lower on the peak last night, along with a number of HAP's and Sherpas. Good news is that previous fatal accidents on K2 were more often results of avalanches, sudden storms or disorientation before actual deterioriation.

The affected climbers are sitting put and weather at present seems to be on their side. A descent over the steep, icy sections of the Traverse and the Bottleneck is possible but poses a great risk as the mountaineers have now spent almost 30 hours on K2's upper slopes, probably without oxygen support. Time is of essence in the rescue efforts.

Recap August 1 descent

Dutch K2 Norit expedition webmaster Maarten van Eck has done a huge job over the past 24 hours to keep everyone informed.

The Norit expedition website has now been updated with a check list of K2 climbers whereabouts on the mountain. It's 3 am in the morning local time, and with the 8 pm summits climbers are still descending to high camp.

The Norwegians and French Hugues d’Aubarade reportedly summited before the Dutch (it's unclear yet who used supplementary oxygen) and were coming down at the time of the Dutch summit.

Cas, Gerard, Pemba and Wilco are still descending. Their headlights were seen from BC at the start of descent. Marco Confortola was reportedly behind Wilco at summit time. Mark Sheen is in C4 considering a summit bid tonight.

Weather is still holding albeit with a slight increase in winds forecasted for this morning.

Serbian Expedition followers can be updated on the official website below. Check in on the Norit website for further updates through the night.

Links to K2 teams in Pakistan:

Wilco van Rooijen's Norit K2 expedition
Serbian Vojvodinean expedition
Gerard McDonnell's dispatches
Marco Confortola's updates
Singapore expedition
Cecilie Skog's updates
Nick Rice's dispatches
Mike Farris expedition's website
Hugues d'Aubarede









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